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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.